Thursday, May 12, 2011

Expert advice on summer skin care

From sunburns to dry, flaky skin to germ-laden beauty supplies, summer weather can be tough on your skin and beauty routine. USA TODAY's Michelle Healy asks skin care experts for advice on keeping your face and skin healthy and protected in the season ahead:

Sunscreen:You should be applying sunscreen all year round but come warm weather and even more opportunities to be outdoors, the most important thing you can do to care for your skin is using "sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen," says Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, a dermatologist in East Bay, Calif., and clinical instructor at the University of California, San Francisco. She recommends zinc-based sunblocks for best protection and stresses the importance "all skin types and ethnicities" reapplying it every two hours as people become more active.

And all skin types and ethnicities require daily use of sunscreen. "Even darker skin tones are susceptible to sunburns, skin cancers, brown spots, and wrinkles, just like Caucasian skin," says Badreshia-Bansal.

If you're using "photosensitizing topical or oral medications, such as antibiotics or retinoid products it is even more important to practice this basic step," she says.

A growing number of moisturizers and foundations now contain sunscreen, but users typically put on these products sparingly and do not reapply them regularly, so "you may not be getting the full SPF (sun protection factor) you need," says dermatologist Jocelyn Lieb, associate director of Advanced Dermatology P.C. in Ridgewood, N.J.

"A moisturizer with a strong SPF of at least 50 can be used without an additional sunblock," she says. "But otherwise it's best to first put on a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more, followed by moisturizer and foundation or base, if you use it."

Some brands of mineral makeup are promoted as offering UV protection, often because they contain a high content of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, two ingredients commonly found in traditional sunscreen. But "the jury is still out" on the level of protection they provide, says Lieb.
Neglected places:The chest, back of hands, ears and lips are often neglected when it comes to sun protection, but they also need shielding from the sun's damaging rays, says dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research at Mount Sinai Hospital's Department of Dermatology in New York.

An opaque lipstick (preferably with an SPF rating of 15 or above applied every two hours) or a sports stick with sunscreen are good bets to protect the lips, but avoid wearing plain petroleum jelly or lip glosses that don't include sunscreen before spending considerable time in the sun, says Lieb. "They can act like baby oil, absorbing UV rays and leading to sunburns."

To get dry, flaky skin prepped for summer exposure, gently exfoliate to give the skin a smoother and brighter appearance. "You're not only removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, you're also removing dirt and oil," says Zeichner. Whether it's an over-the-counter body scrub or microdermabrasian kit, he recommends limiting the process to once a week and never exfoliating sunburned skin. Exfoliation is also a must if you use a sunless tanning product to help ensure even coverage, he says.

es. Loofah sponges, for example, may be great at removing dead skin cells, but dermatologist Jocelyn Lieb doesn't recommend them because they "offer the perfect warm, wet, dark environment for bacteria to grow."

Mascara, eye shadow or any other eye-area makeup "should immediately be tossed if you've had any recent eye infections such as conjunctivitis," says dermatologist Sonia Badreshia-Bansal.
In fact, old eye makeup goes "off" in texture and color and can also breed bacteria that causes eye irritation or infection, says celebrity makeup artist Sandy Linter, co-author of The Makeup Wakeup: Revitalizing Your Look at Any Age.

Under normal circumstances, manufacturers typically recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase, because of repeated microbial exposure during use and the risk of eye infections, according to the Food and Drug Administration. The FDA notes that eye makeup "has a shorter shelf life than other cosmetics."

Figuring out beauty products' shelf-life can be difficult, given that expiration dates are not mandatory. Even when they are posted, they are general guidelines, says the FDA, and products may start to degrade before the expiration date if not stored properly.

Zeichner recommends tossing any product that "doesn't look right, smell right or isn't working the way it did initially."